There's no arguing that cheese, pretzels and beer are a damn fine trio. I like Snyder's hard sourdough with that Wisconsin cheese-food product sold in little plastic tubs alongside the real cheddar at the supermarket, along with a sixer of Pilsner Urquell. Pop the cap, dip the pretzel and let the crumbs fall where they may.
That may be a fine afternoon in front of the television, but if you think that's where beer should be relegated, you're missing out.
Every month in the Bay area there are dozens of dinners at the best restaurants and wine bars where tasty food and fine wine are combined into a sum that is greater than the parts. This glorious alchemy is the height of enjoyment for any serious gourmand, but it's also a bit limiting. According to Garrett Oliver, brewmaster of Brooklyn Brewery, "If you love food, but you only know wine, then you're trying to write a symphony using only half the notes and half the orchestra."
Earlier this year, Oliver released The Brewmaster's Table, his attempt to educate people on the joys of putting the right food with the right beer. "Both beer and wine reach their best expression with food," explains Oliver, "but beer is by far the most versatile partner." And beer is much more accessible, with the world's finest brews drastically less expensive than their wine counterparts. With most beers under $5, he points out that they are "affordable luxuries."
Brewmaster's Table is an encyclopedic reference of the world's classic beer styles, with specific examples of currently produced beer and suggestions for pairing, along with a hefty number of general rules that should allow people to easily put the practice into play. Putting together your own beer dinner at home should be a snap, but the limited beer menus at Bay-area restaurants can still make the process a bit difficult when eating out.
Still, there are signs that the public is ready for a beer and food restaurant revolution. Zen Forrest in New Port Richey has had two beer dinners this year, with a third scheduled for the end of October. "People are crazy for them," says chef/owner Victor Wang. The restaurant has drawn about 70 people to the previous dinners, more than at similar wine functions. "Beer is a little less intimidating," he explains.
Wang works with former brewmaster and beer distributor Bob Haa to pick the beers, tasting several to match the right flavors and body for each course. "Pairing food and beer is easier compared to wine," explains Wang. He feels that beer's cleansing effect on the palate accentuates the tastes in the food and that certain beers are almost tailor-made for certain dishes. Unlike wine, beer is often infused with spices, herbs or other seasonings like lemongrass or cardamom. If you have a recipe that includes one of those spices, matching is a simple process.
Otherwise, the principles of finding the right food for a particular beer (or the right beer for a particular food) are essentially the same as with wine. Generally, try to match the body of the beer to the richness of the food — the heavier the beer, the more substantial the dish. Match complementary flavors — like a crisp wheat beer with a tart young goat cheese. Or find synergy — for instance, a nutty dark ale with a sharp cheese. Don't limit yourself to the rules, though. Sometimes the most interesting combinations come from contrasting flavors.
Here are a few suggestions based on particular styles of beer.
• Wheat Beer — Since these tend to be lighter beers with crisp acidity, they work great with any cold seafood, young cheeses and straightforward salads, especially salads that include grains like bulgur or quinoa.
• Bitter, Pilsner, Pale Ale — These beers are heavy on the hops, giving them a palate-cleansing bitterness, but not a lot of body. Still, this is a case where contrast works well; pair these beers with rich foods where the hops can cut through and refresh your mouth, like fried chicken, barbecue or a fatty piece of meat.
• Dark Lager, Bock — If you've got roast chicken or a pot pie, this is the beer for you. Rich enough to stand up to a little protein and complex enough to handle a variety of flavors, these lagers are still light enough not to overshadow the food.
• Dark Ales — They're extremely versatile, with a medium body and moderate malt flavor that makes them the beer world's workhorse. Burgers go well, as do roast beef, steaks, sausages and a variety of cheeses.
• Porter, Dry Stouts — These were once workingmen's beers, heavy, filling brews meant to serve in the place of lunch or to fortify for a long afternoon of labor. Pair them with hearty stews and meat slathered in gravy, Cornish pasties or powerful cheeses. Or just drink them instead of dinner.
• Sweet Stouts — Although these intensely rich and sweet beers work well with a variety of desserts, especially anything involving chocolate and red berries, their bitterness also insures an impeccable match with an after-dinner cheese course. Also try them with heavier spicy foods, like chili, where their sweetness can counteract some of the heat.
This article appears in Oct 17-23, 2007.