When MJ's Martini and Tapas opened last year, I didn't expect much. It was billed more as a jazz club than a restaurant, and the location — tucked behind a defunct Bennigan's on St. Pete's North 4th — was terrible. One visit changed my mind about the place, thanks entirely to chef Domenica Macchia.
Then, soon after the place opened, Macchia was fired by the owners of MJ's. After a few months of looking, and some concern over her mortgage, she hooked up with Dan Soronen with plans to create a gastropub menu at his soon-to-open Shackleton's Folly in south St. Pete. "Soon" became months, and finally Macchia left to find another new opportunity. Fortuitously, Greg Pugh — owner of Ringside Cafe — was interested in opening a new place. Fast.
Tomorrow, Diner 437 (check out the full menu) opens in the former space of Grillside Central, with Macchia in the kitchen, back doing what she does best. She is one of my favorite chefs — or even people — to just gab with, thanks to her unedited, machine-gun delivery. So I decided to give her a call and ask her about the past few months.
I talked to her this morning, much too early in the morning for most chefs to be awake.
Why up so early?
I've never done lunch or breakfast, so I'm trying to get used to this. The concept [at Diner 437] for me is why not get great eggs all day long?
What went wrong at Shackleton's Folly?
I started in February. We planned on two weeks afterward I'd get on the payroll, construction was going well, and planned on opening on St. Patty's day. I'll tell you everything, I was heartbroken. After four and a half months [Soronen] had no money to pay. I believed in the place, and believed in him, but I realized in the beginning of April I had to move on. I couldn't lose my house over his dream. He's kind of mad at me, I wish him the best, but love is not enough. You have to pay your bills.
How did you hook up with Greg Pugh (owner of Ringside Café and now Diner 437)?
I don't think of myself as spiritual, I think it just sounds good when you're meeting people, but it all seemed to work out for the best. I left Shackleton on Thursday, in worse shape now than ever before, then Friday I got a call from Greg. He said, "Can I come get you?" I didn't know him, thought maybe I should bring my knife. But hey, in desperation I'll get in anyone's car these days.He showed me a space and I thought, "Wow, right back on Central, kind of where I started down at Redwood." After a five-minute walkthrough, I said, "I think a diner would work there."
He asked me to work up a menu and I said, "it just so happens I have one right here."
What is Diner 437 going to be like?
Well, there's the counter so I have to learn not to drop f-bombs. My inside voice is, uh, really …
I took the menu from Shackleton's and made it fit.
This article appears in May 27 – Jun 2, 2009.