American Social Bar & Kitchen
3 out of 5 stars
601 S. Harbour Island Blvd., Tampa. Share plates: $8-$18.50; sandwiches & salads: $11.50-$19.50; large plates: $23-$39; desserts: $9; beer, cocktails & wine: $6-$22. 813-605-3333; americansocialbar.com.
American Social Bar & Kitchen is an upscale sports bar and restaurant with stunning water views, omnipresent TVs, and a decibel level that’s as much nightclub as restaurant. Come for throbbing energy, not conversation. One Yelper described Tampa’s new AmSo as having a “frat house” vibe. Perhaps that’s partly a result of 40 craft beers on draft, specialty cocktails and a wine list that’s short but well chosen. And, be still my heart, Veuve Clicquot brut and rosé Champagne — my weakness — are available by the glass.
The cocktails offer many riches. My tasters are drawn to two, which turn out to be terrific. Cucumber Fizz starts with a Stoli cucumber-infused vodka and St-Germain, then adds fresh mint, cucumber and citrus. It’s delicious and ever so refreshing. Our smoked Old Fashioned is also a hit. The usual suspects of Michter's Bourbon, bitters, orange peel and simple syrup rise to new heights with a touch of smoked maple wood.
As for food, the black truffle short rib melts, one “share plate,” is outrageously good. It’s really a sandwich cut into three ample pieces. Red wine-braised short ribs are shredded and topped with black truffle aioli, melted Gruyère, and potato sticks on golden, crisp sourdough bread. It’s one of the best things I’ve had recently, knocking on BOTB territory. Next time, I’m not sharing.
Heirloom tomato soup is subtle and very creamy with a garnish of fresh basil that’s in balance. The best part is the Gruyère toast, a perfect grilled cheese sandwich. The sourdough bread is great for dipping, which I do with great zest as my posse urges me on. It’s served on a fun American flag wooden board.
Grouper fingers and cheeks are superb examples of battered fish. Their coating isn’t a bit greasy, and the inside is wonderfully succulent. Be aware, though, that the aioli snaking back and forth over the fish has a kick. I’d ask for it on the side if you have a diner in your party who’s not into spice. The accompanying slaw has a strong pop of vinegar. Taken as a whole, the share plates are as big as the large-plate entrées, and — based on what we sampled, at least — more successful.
While the signature AmSo burger looks textbook, it’s a huge disappointment. First off, I ask for medium rare and get well done, but with superb burgers popping up around the Bay area, this one is as boring as the share plates are memorable. The hand-cut fries show promise, though mine aren’t as hot or crispy as to be notable.
The same is true of cedar plank salmon. It’s not particularly smoky and just slightly dry. The potatoes and zucchini are fine; they’re dressed up with some red pepper and red onion. However, it’s a question of “I’ve seen it before.” The dish’s black truffle lemon emulsion, which is OK, overpowers the fish. Maybe our starters upped my expectations, but I’m underwhelmed.
Clam and sausage pasta spices up Cedar Key clams with zippy house-made andouille, which is browned and crumbled to resemble hamburger so that it permeates the entire dish. The capellini is nicely al dente and includes some small heirloom tomatoes and tiny, delectable onions brûléed for a touch of sweetness. Although sausage and clams isn’t an unusual combo, for me, the heat from this particular sausage renders the clams useless — they’re overwhelmed. There are lots of good flavors, yet it’s out of balance.
The desserts are good, if not swoon-worthy. There’s no menu for the sweets, but our server announces three choices. We skip the brownie with ice cream to opt for the pleasant key lime panna cotta, which is more creamy than tart, and the crème brûlée duo.
Two square ramekins arrive on a matching deep red oval plate trimmed in black: one chocolate and one traditional vanilla. The torched sugar crust on both crème brûlée treats is thin, delivering plenty of crackle. The custards are a bit soft, but flavorful. I’m actually surprised by the chocolate one — light and very tasty. It lacks the punch a dense mousse or pot de crème delivers, though it pairs well with its vanilla sibling. Neither strikes the table as being rich, a surprise since that’s often the response to this ubiquitous confection. Those who seek to indulge in a sweet finish that’s yummy without an OMG factor should go for it.
There’s a bunch of carping online about the prices at AmSo. But somebody has to pay for the view across the water from Harbour Island, which is unparalleled. Obviously, the brand has been well-tested in Miami and Fort Lauderdale; those huge spaces are well appointed with waterfront sights. Yes, the share plates aren’t cheap, but the portions are entree size.
Looking at all the factors, the price tags don’t seem jacked up. That being said, the newcomer is clearly aimed at young professionals, as there are cheaper destinations to meet. It’s a matter of taste. AmSo’s explicit goal is to be “your new social spot,” after all. And even on a weekday visit, the place is rocking.
One note, however, is that while there’s plenty of parking — free for two hours with validation — prepare to pay $5 an hour if you don’t want to miss the end of the football game. If you’re looking to emulate stadium energy with your crew, AmSo may be your dream.
CL Food Critic Jon Palmer Claridge dines anonymously when reviewing. Check out the explanation of his rating system, or email him at food@creativeloafing.com.
