When the lovely Italian bistro and wine bar, Pensare, sadly shuttered, I watched with anticipation to see what the next chapter would be for this prime intersection in delightful downtown Dunedin. When I learned the new tenant would be Clearwater transplant Pisces Sushi & Global Bistro, I thought, "ho-hum."
Boy, was I wrong.
I should've known by the large, animated crowd when I went for a recent weeknight tasting that I was in for a real treat. I've had lots of sushi since joining CL. It's been mostly good, some very satisfying, but rarely arresting. My trip to James Keene and Lizzy Perez-Keene's 150-seat Pisces is a revelation, evoking fond memories of a Manhattan sushi orgy from days gone by.
This trip begins with crab bisque. You see, I'm always interested in eating soup. It takes lots of time and craft to make good stock and provides fine insight into the culture of a restaurant kitchen: Is the soup pedestrian or does the broth have layers of flavor that reveal a chef seeking finesse? While soup is certainly a comfort food for many, great soup brings you up short. There's an "aha" moment with the first spoonful that announces attention must be paid. Lacking that, you enjoy a bowl without thinking. But if your taste buds go "wow," there's pleasure to savor in each sip.
Pisces' crab bisque is intense and full-flavored. Creamed sherry is present in the stock, but it's subtle and doesn't mask the snow crab, allowing the crustacean to sing. There's also a full mouthfeel without relying on large amounts of heavy cream. The soup is dark and layered with a textural garnish of croutons and scallions.
The tuna tataki starter beautifully layers poppy seed-crusted slices of deep red, luscious fish. There are some crisp cucumbers, bits of scallions, and tiny, bright orange masago (the minuscule capelin roe that's popular in sushi). It's all lightly dressed in a balanced sesame and ponzu glaze that provides just enough light acidity to perfectly complement the tuna. This kind of care makes a difference. Ingredients you've seen many times before are elevated.
Better is a signature dish of chef James Keene's tapas menu called Jamaican Me Crazy. It's an absolutely exquisite dish that showcases plump, juicy shrimp with spicy Caribbean jerk seasoning and a winning combo of pineapple salsa, sweet plantains, fresh coconut aioli and a sprinkling of toasted coconut flakes. Again, the piña colada flavor mashup is familiar, but it rarely tastes this good.
Deciding among the many sushi rolls is tough. We can't resist something called Dunedin's Dream. There's a lot of delicious going on. It starts with panko-crusted grouper and cream cheese, as well as avocado topped with spicy tuna. Then, some tangy garlic aioli balanced with sweet chili, the crunch of wonton crisps, the bite of scallions, and the jewel-like sheen of the sparkling masago. Bold and beautiful and yum-yum-yummy. I feel like Pac-Man.
Next we turn to Popeye for the I Yam What I Yam roll. The center is lush — tempura sweet potato and spinach topped with avocado. There's also roasted garlic aioli, which tames the fire, but leaves the flavor. Add arare (soy-flavored Japanese rice crackers) for a salty crunch and you've got a purely vegetarian winner.
I always opt for nigiri (slices of fish on acidulated rice) to see the quality of the seafood and the mastery of rice, which sounds simple yet is truly complicated. If you don't believe me, be wowed by Jiro Dreams of Sushi on Netflix. My first choice is eel, a favorite that many skip because of a perceived "ick" factor. It's delicious. So, by the way, are octopus and uni. At least give these a try; judge by the taste and leave those little limiting voices in your brain behind. To prejudge a food is no different than ignoring new music, theater, dance or art. You can start with eel and thank me later. All the food here is beautiful. Our entire sushi order is served on a single platter to share, which only makes me hungrier.
I'm off my soapbox and ready for a sweet finish. Luckily, Pisces' creme brûlée flight is a lesson in flavor and texture. Each of the four little cups is finished with a perfectly torched crunchy sugar crust. It's evenly spread out across the whole surface for maximum crunch. The flavors are intensely concentrated, with green tea on the mild end and espresso almost as punchy as a double shot. The tangy ginger and woody vanilla are full-flavored and delicious. This whole quartet is creme brûlée master class.
Even if you're just sushi-curious, Pisces is not to be missed. There's live music Friday, Saturday or Sunday on the patio, plus the largest selection of Hitachino Nest Beer, imported from Japan's Kiuchi Brewery, in Florida (Pisces carries nine of Kiuchi's 11 beers in production; Walt Disney World has four). What's not to love? Pensare is dead, long live Pisces!
Jon Palmer Claridge dines anonymously when reviewing. Check out the explanation of his rating system.
