The obvious charms of Pass-A-Grille are, well, obvious: White sand, blue water, killer sunsets and the rooftop deck of The Hurricane, the beachfront institution from which all of this beauty can be surveyed while consuming drinks made with rum. But if you've only passed through Pass-A-Grille, you may have missed the less visible but no less appealing shopping district of Eighth Avenue, where the people who run the shops — from mother-daughter painters to hirsute gentleman jewelers — are as interesting as the merchandise.
A Little Room for Art (111 Eighth Ave., 727-360-8572). As the name suggests, this pink-and-white charmer is a mere sliver of a shop. But there's a surprising amount of wonderful stuff packed inside, the work of a cooperative of 40 local artists. "Some of us do one thing, some of us do several things," said Mariann Yatsco, who was watching the store the day we visited. "We bore easily." Her glass wind chimes ($25-$30) hang from the tree in the dappled back garden, a showcase for a variety of outdoor artworks; her fabric and photograph collage of multicolored palms ($75) is in the front gallery. Another versatile member, Mary Grieco, paints dynamic acrylics and makes lovely jewelry, like a strand of hand-knotted golden pearls with an amber scallop-shell pendant ($40). Even if you don't want to shop, you may want to pay a visit here to meet Toulouse, an amiable cockatiel who occasionally whistles "Dixie."
Evander Preston (106 Eighth Ave., 1-800-586-EVAN). A local legend with international reach, Evander (Evan for short — pronounced e-VAN) is a jeweler, art connoisseur, gourmet cook and, judging by his shop, a born entertainer. You may not see Evan himself, but you're likely to meet his assistants, who — like Evan — sport hairstyles and beards that suggest a chic ZZ Top. Take a glass of sangria from Freddie, say hello to the two resident Great Danes, and enjoy the ride as Ken shows you some of the wittiest, most extraordinary jewelry anywhere (with prices to match). A tiny, working toy train in 18-ct. gold (starts at $80,000 and goes up from there depending on what gems you want to add); a 14-ct. yellow gold pull-tab pendant ($495 plus chain); a gorgeous spider-web necklace, to be worn on the back ($7,700); and a 14-ct. fly swatter, complete with fly ($895) — to name just a few. While you're there, enjoy Evan's art collection — it's not for sale, but where else are you going to find a Russian motorbike from WWII, a jazz band of taxidermied frogs, a faux tuxedo jacket made of wood, and a TV camera from the set of I Love Lucy?
Paradiso (104 Eighth Ave., 727-363-8831). A playful mix of stylish clothing and seaworthy gifts, Paradiso sells a squiggly, colorful chain ($38) for reading glasses that would be perfect for a slightly wacky aunt; a beaded chartreuse camisole by Hale Bob ($159); a fancifully filigreed denim jacket ($72); plus shell pillows, Tommy Bahama shirts and glycerin soap ($8) designed to look like a goldfish in a bag.
Bamboozle (107 Eighth Ave., 727-363-6900). New clothes and Old Florida cohabit happily in this fashion and housewares boutique. No polyester smocks here; the emphasis is on casually elegant shapes in natural fibers — like a pleated wool shawl made in India from a company called, aptly enough, Natural ($65). It would be perfect for sophisticated Floridians of a certain age — like Joan Loughery, whose daughter Amy owns Bamboozle and who was working behind the counter on a recent Saturday. Amy's shop also carries a line of lampshades ($59/ $82) printed with vintage Florida photos, including one of a steamer that sailed the Tampa/St. Pete/Pass-A-Grille line. Be sure to get a look at the wicker-monkey chandelier ($675).
The Nature of Art Gallery (105 Eighth Ave., 727-367-5654). Another mother-daughter team stars here: Painter Sandra Williams and photographer Kathy Crotts, both Texas-born, have made their marks by capturing the beauty of nature in Florida and elsewhere. In addition to their work, which is often arresting in its clarity, the gallery shows over 70 artists. The prices are pretty arresting, too; the owners keep them low to make sure "art is accessible to everybody," said gallery employee Elsa. On your way out (or in), check out Richard Cawvey's giant wood carving of a formidable-looking fish ($175).
This article appears in Nov 16-23, 2005.